2005 prius brake light bulb

I was beyond excited to add 4 new White & Color Ambiance A19 bulbs to our collection of Hue bulbs—We started our Hue ecosystem over 10 years ago with a handful of 1st gens, which were the only Hue bulbs at that time, and purchased a bulb or two for birthdays or Christmas over the years—I purchased these 4 directly from Philips last week during Bright Days sale to save 30%.
Unboxed today and my heart sank. This cheap plastic is anything but beautiful, and the line of demarcation is worse. I’m totally cool with the regular White Hue bulbs (the rounded bulb shape) from plastic as they’re very affordable and make sense for closets or porch lights when I don’t care for Color temperature.
But the classic White & Color Ambiance A19 bulbs have not decreased in price (ignoring bulk purchase or special sales). I did choose 1100 Lumens this time vs previously available only with max 800 Lumens.
The jump from (glass) 600 lumen 1st gen to subsequent 800 lumen (glass) bulbs came with the added benefit of better greens and increased saturation of colors. I assumed my new 1100 lumen Hue bulbs would be brighter, but would (at least!) maintain the quality craftsmanship of previous generations of the classic A19 color bulb.
Am I wrong, or am I missing out if I return these ugly cheap feeling bulbs, and say goodbye forever to my dreams of growing our Hue ecosystem to infinity and beyond?
Or did Hue get bored and give up on quality?
Lastly is it possible I’m entirely mistaken, and that this ugly new take on the classic Hue bulb will knock my socks off?

I have a 1995 Civic LX and both brake lights on the right side don't come on when pressing the brake. As you can see in the pic, each brake light has 2 parts, one on the body and one on the trunk lid. Each piece has its own bulb, so 4 tail light/brake light bulbs total. The bulbs are not the problem, confirmed by swapping the right and left bulbs and it's still the right side that doesn't work. What else could cause both right brake lights to fail besides the bulb?

Recently bought a 2008 Chevy Equinox for dirt cheap from a family member due to all the issues it has.
As the car started, the following indication lights stayed on and these messages would cycle on the dash:
• ABS LIGHT • ([Brake]) LIGHT • Check Tire Pressure LIGHT (car was neglected for 1+ year(s))
• "Service Stabilitrak" • "Traction Control Off" • "All Wheel Drive Off"
While driving the vehicle, these messages kept cycling through at varying speeds.
Given all these messages I performed an OBD scan, and received the following report (No codes were reset)***:
(Report Dated: May 28)
From a bit of research I concluded that the a combination of the following actions could be performed to resolve these issues:
• Replace the Steering wheel position/angle sensor. • Followed up by an alignment since the steering wheel is at an angle when driving it straight • Replace the wheel hub and bearing bearing in case the magnetic ring is cracked or broken. • The car makes a growling noise that worsens with an increase in speed. Given the amount of miles the car has, it probably needs a new set of wheel bearings. • Replace the Wheel speed sensor(s) • It's only $12/piece • Fill up the Brake Fluid
When we usually have a car problem, I brute force it and replace all the components, but an attempy has been made to narrow the problem down before pulling the trigger and spending money on all these parts.
In an attempt to narrow down the problems, I maxed out the brake fluid and checked the speed sensor in question. After disconnecting the speed sensor, a visible inspection of the harness and connector was performed to rule out oxidation or other visible damage.
After reconnecting the speed sensor, all of the indication lights ceased to appear. Confused and skeptic to believe that all of these issues were resolved, I performed another OBD Scan and received the following report:
(Report Dated: May 29)
This was strange as all the indication lights and messages were no longer showing up. Also, bear in mind***, that I did not reset the codes.
Shooting-the-shit with a friend, they proposed that I drove the car for a while to see if the codes would disappear (very optimistic approach, I know), or the Indicator lights would reappear.
After filling up the tank and driving the vehicle throught varying conditions (25 mph, 35 mph, and 65mph zones) across 40 miles. The "service stabilitrak" light came back on. With the light coming back on, I did another OBD Scan, yet again, here is that latest report:
(Report Dated: June 3)
Now, I am stumped, what I know for certain is that it needs new wheel bearings because of that growling noise it makes at high speeds, it seems that the steering wheel position sensor needs to be replaced, but now I get a recommendation to replace the EBCM and the wheel speed sensor stop showing up.
Any advice on how to move forward?
Has anybody experienced or seen this before in a 2005-2009 Chevy Equinox (1st Gen)? If so, what took care of these problems?
tl;dr: Bought a 2008 Chevy Equinox for dirt cheap, dash looked like a Christmas tree display, performed OBD to narrow down issue. Christmas display turned off after disconnecting and reconnecting a sensor (no codes were reset). Performed another OBD, different code(s) showed up. Drove car, one light came back. Performed a third OBD scan, 1 code disappeared with a recommended solution from auto repair store. Don't know what to believe. Please, help.

Recently bought a 2008 Chevy Equinox for dirt cheap from a family member due to all the issues it has.
As the car started, the following indication lights stayed on and these messages would cycle on the dash:
• ABS LIGHT • ([Brake]) LIGHT • Check Tire Pressure LIGHT (car was neglected for 1+ year(s))
• "Service Stabilitrak" • "Traction Control Off" • "All Wheel Drive Off"
While driving the vehicle, these messages kept cycling through at varying speeds.
Given all these messages I performed an OBD scan, and received the following report (No codes were reset)***:
(Report dated: May 28)
From a bit of research I concluded that the a combination of the following actions could be performed to resolve these issues:
• Replace the Steering wheel position/angle sensor. • Followed up by an alignment since the steering wheel is at an angle when driving it straight • Replace the wheel hub and bearing bearing in case the magnetic ring is cracked or broken. • The car makes a growling noise that worsens with an increase in speed. Given the amount of miles the car has, it probably needs a new set of wheel bearings. • Replace the Wheel speed sensor(s) • It's only $12/piece • Fill up the Brake Fluid
When we usually have a car problem, I brute force it and replace all the components, but an attempy has been made to narrow the problem down before pulling the trigger and spending money on all these parts.
In an attempt to narrow down the problems, I maxed out the brake fluid and checked the speed sensor in question. After disconnecting the speed sensor, a visible inspection of the harness and connector was performed to rule out oxidation or other visible damage.
After reconnecting the speed sensor, all of the indication lights ceased to appear. Confused and skeptic to believe that all of these issues were resolved, I performed another OBD Scan and received the following report:
(Report Dated: May 29)
This was strange as all the indication lights and messages were no longer showing up. Also, bear in mind***, that I did not reset the codes.
Shooting-the-shit with a friend, they proposed that I drove the car for a while to see if the codes would disappear (very optimistic approach, I know), or the Indicator lights would reappear.
After filling up the tank and driving the vehicle throught varying conditions (25 mph, 35 mph, and 65mph zones) across 40 miles. The "service stabilitrak" light came back on. With the light coming back on, I did another OBD Scan, yet again, here is that latest report:
(Report Dated: June 3)
Now, I am stumped, what I know for certain is that it needs new wheel bearings because of that growling noise it makes at high speeds, it seems that the steering wheel position sensor needs to be replaced, but now I get a recommendation to replace the EBCM and the wheel speed sensor stop showing up.
Any advice on how to move forward?
Has anybody experienced or seen this before in a 2005-2009 Chevy Equinox (1st Gen)? If so, what took care of these problems?
tl;dr: Bought a 2008 Chevy Equinox for dirt cheap, dash looked like a Christmas tree display, performed OBD to narrow down issue. Christmas display turned off disconnecting and reconnecting a sensor (no codes were reset). Performed another OBD, different code(s) showed up. Drove car, one light came back. Performed a third OBD scan, 1 code disappeared with a recommended solution from auto repair store. Don't know what to believe. Please, help.

I'm shopping for a new lightweight eMTB and I've narrowed it down to the Trek Fuel EXe, Transition Relay, Specialized Turbo Levo SL, and the Orbea Rise. I have no idea where to demo the Specialized and the new Orbea isn't available yet, so I took the opportunity to demo both the Fuel EXe and the Transition Relay.

• BUILD & PRICE:
  • I rented the Trek in the 9.5 build with Shimano SLX drivetrain and brakes, no-name 29" alloy wheels, an alloy bastem, a RockShox 35 Gold, and a RockShox Deluxe Select+ shock.
    • This build is $6,500 and the Fuel EXe only comes in a carbon frame. They go all the way up to like $14k with XX AXS and high end suspension. Their $8,700 Shimano XT build seems to have reasonable components (RockShox Lyrik Select + which is basically the Lyrik Ultimate but without the buttercups, XT brakes/drivetrain, carbon wheels, and carbon bastem) and spec compared to the Transition build at the same price.
  • I rented the Transition in their PNW Carbon XO build with the Sram XO transmission, TRP DH-R Evo brakes, alloy bastem, Fox Factory 38 Grip 2, Fox DHX coil shock, RaceFace Aeffect R alloy wheels in mixed/mullet size.
    • This build is $11,000 and has a carbon frame, alloy models top out at $8,000 and carbon starts at $8,700 with basic/middle of the road Fox/Sram components and alloy bawheels. Compared to the Trek's XT build this one is heavy and doesn't make much sense.
• MOTOR:
  • The Trek uses the TQ HPR50 motor with 50Nm and 300 watts of power.
    • The TQ is probably the smoothest ebike motor I've ever felt. So far I've ridden TQ, Fazua, Specialized, Magura, and RadPower (no idea what they use). The TQ felt unbelievably natural, and better than any of the previously mentioned as far as power delivery and torque sensor performance. No spikes in power output, no overrun, it just felt like it was easier to pedal uphill and the torque sensor worked flawlessly. It was very easy to maintain a constant cadence so my analog buddy didn't fall behind. Technical climbing sections were very manageable with this motor.
    • Motor was extremely quiet, almost imperceptible by me or anyone else on the trail.
    • The controller and display were also super neatly integrated and very intuitive, with the display providing tons of helpful information like battery %, range in miles, range in time, and motohuman power output.
    • I was pleasantly surprised at how powerful it felt in even 100w eco mode. A 1700 foot climb left me barely sweating. 200w and 300w modes were great for steeper sections.
  • The Transition Relay uses the Fazua Ride 60 with 60Nm and 450 watts (in 12 second boost mode).
    • Unfortunately the Fazua was not very refined. Start pedaling and a second or so later there was a jerk as the power kicked on which lurched the bike forward slightly and made a noise. The torque sensor was not tuned well and I was constantly having to adjust force applied to the pedals to maintain a slow speed so my analog buddy didn't fall behind. I could not maintain a constant cadence or it would take off leaving him behind. Don't get me wrong, the power was nice and it was fast uphill, but it was not refined. Technical climbing was more difficult because of the abrupt power changes of this motor and I messed up several sections because of this.
    • The motor was quiet, but I could certainly hear a faint whine most of the time. When coasting the motor clicks like the pawls of a freehub.
    • The controller is terrible, it's this cheap plasticky twist thing that isn't super intuitive and can stick in place shutting off the bike unintentionally. I accidentally turned off the bike several times because of this and accidentally changed modes several times.
    • The "display" is just 5 dots for remaining battery that were green, blue, or purple for each mode. It showed nothing else. This also lifted up to reveal a USB-C port, but it was full of dirt and did not look water tight.
• BATTERY:
  • The Trek has a 360Wh battery.
    • This lasted surprisingly long. We did 3000 feet of climbing/descending over the course of ~4.5 hours and it used about 60% of the total capacity. I was riding mostly in 100w eco, with short stints in 200w and 300w. My legs and arms were totally beat at this point so I was satisfied. Trek has an available 160Wh range extender which would definitely make it like a 6000+ foot adventure day bike. I'd like to get more time on the bike in 200w and 300w modes to see how long it lasts on like a quick sprint after work.
  • The Transition has a 430Wh battery.
    • This also lasted pretty long, but since the display had only 5 dots I was only able to tell that I had used about half of the battery after climbing/descending about 2400 feet over 4 hours. This was also in the lowest power mode for most of that.
• WEIGHT:
  • The Trek build that I rode was 44 pounds (the 9.5 build). It felt surprisingly light and handled very well in corners, in the air I could certainly feel it but it wasn't unmanageable. The more expensive builds are quite a bit lighter in the 39 to 42 pound range.
  • The Transition build that I rode was definitely heavier than the Trek. It is quoted at 45.5 pounds on their site, but it felt more than 1.5 pounds heavier than the Trek. I felt it in the air for sure.
• GEOMETRY:
  • I won't go into a ton of detail here, but both have a 460mm reach in the size mediums that I tested. I'm 5'9" and 160 pounds. The Transition has a slacker head tube angle by about 1.2 degrees at 63.3 degrees which I definitely noticed, especially in tighter corners and uphill switchbacks - it tripped me up a few times for sure.
• RIDE THOUGHTS:
  • The Trek was surprisingly capable for only having 150/140mm of travel (you can fit a 160mm fork without voiding the warranty, the shock can be overstroked by 5mm to 152mm rear travel but I think that probably voids the warranty). I felt extremely comfortable with the geometry of this bike. The rear suspension felt supportive but not overly firm/harsh. I sent that thing down chunky black tech/flow trails all day and it handled it just fine. I certainly wanted a better fork/shock but it was a rental so that was fine. The 29" wheels didn't hold me back on technical climbing sections, tight switchbacks, or anything like that. It was actually my first time riding a 29er and I really enjoyed it. The bike felt heavyish but not too bad and was definitely manageable. Cornering felt good and it was pretty poppy/playful for an ebike. I only got to test a couple of jumps on it but it felt good and not too heavy in the air. It was very quiet without any discernible rattles or clunks. The components were okay, I'd definitely get better brakes/wheels/tires but SLX drivetrain is fine for how cheap it is.
  • The Transition had a loud rattling noise coming from inside it (the battery/motowiring I'd assume) which was disconcerting. I had a really hard time vibing with the geometry of this bike. I couldn't seem to place my bodyweight properly and this resulted in some weird lines and a slip or two, and I'm not the greatest at cornering in the first place but I felt less confident on this bike. This was also my first time riding a long/slack bike with mullet wheels and a coil so that was an adjustment. Having 170/170mm travel felt like it could do anything, but I haven't really enjoyed Fox forks in the past and this one was no exception to that - too much stiffness in the initial stroke resulted in a lot of chatter through the handlebars and my arms are really sore from that. The rear definitely stuck to the ground really well with the coil shock. The TRP brakes were amazing, possibly too amazing because I was not used to the power. This bike was certainly heavier and less playful, though the few jumps I did felt really good. Handling the bike in the air was tricky because of the weight. The new Sram XO transmission felt good but not $2000 good - I did not think it felt revolutionary and there's no way in hell I'd spend that much on a drivetrain on a future bike. Sure the shifts were crispy and you could down/upshift under power but I still don't think it was worth how much they ask for that thing.
• LOOKS:
  • IMO the new Trek Fuel EX and EXe look super sexy and I love the color options they have. The paint appeared to be very high quality and the blue color I rode was gorgeous. Most people on the trail didn't recognize the fact that I was riding an ebike because the TQ motor is tiny and hidden behind the chainring.

https://preview.redd.it/pi82o6c2px3b1.jpg?width=1343&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1a95b09dea6354a7cacc1f16c4aa9cfab68b09b

• The Transition looks very Transition and was definitely more noticeable as an ebike. I like the looks and colors, but it didn't have the polish that the Trek did and the paint was not as high quality.

https://preview.redd.it/nymqfrn3px3b1.jpg?width=1304&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=725665f0bc337486b4888f67553389928621c283
Overall, I was already leaning towards the Trek but now I've made a final decision and will be picking up the Trek next weekend since I found the exact build/color I want within a couple hour drive. The motor was just so much more refined and made the experience feel more like an enhanced mountain biking experience than an ebiking experience that's slightly lighter. The Transition is just too expensive for the level of refinement that you get from the Fazua system. If the Transition's cheaper builds came in carbon and with better components than I might reconsider, but still the motor system was not great enough to justify the expense IMO.

The gear shift indicator light in my 2008 Hyundai Accent (also known as Verna in some parts) blew out and I am having a hell of a time finding out what to replace it with, a #74 comes close but isn't an exact fit and so it keeps falling out of the socket and into the gear shift mechanism. The guy at my local auto parts store was stumped when the #74 didn't fit, any ideas?

The gear shift indicator light in my 2008 Hyundai Accent (also known as Verna in some parts) blew out and I am having a hell of a time finding out what to replace it with, a #74 comes close but isn't an exact fit and so it keeps falling out of the socket and into the gear shift mechanism. The guy at my local auto parts store was stumped when the #74 didn't fit, any ideas?

I can’t figure out how to remove the dome or however else you would change the light bulbs on this. I tried twisting off the bottom section but it seems to all be connected and it just unscrews the whole fixture.

HI,
I have been trying to take out two old toggle switches and add the KS230 kit for 3-way dimming capabilities with no success. I have attached the existing wiring schematic but can't translate to the Kasa suggested schematic.
​
Key things (ignoring ground here for simplicity):
- There is a black and white which enters Box 1 from the line up in the ceiling. The WHITE wire which goes from the ceiling to the box is attached to the black line in the ceiling. The black from the line goes to the lamp directly in the ceiling.
- In Box 1 there is an outgoing 14/3. The white is attached to the black. The red and white go from the 3-way near switch to the 3-way far switch.
- only the 14/3 appears at the far 3-way switch.
Without completely rewiring the whole system, since it works with dumb switches now, how do I translate to KS230 wiring?
​
Existing working 3-way wiring with old toggle switches
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https://preview.redd.it/pvp5ak4i7x3b1.png?width=600&format=png&auto=webp&s=e107e96324c4fb1f5c35ea96cb52cf9b91055cb7
Many thanks,