Hello reddit. This is a long story so I'll try to keep it short, however, since the bug eludes me, I'll still provide quite a bit of background. Please bear with me.
Me: I'm 34 yo, have a small degree in IT (although I now work in healthcare, weirdly) and have built numerous PCs over the years without any kind of problems.
One of my colleagues asked me to help him build a new pc. He has a lot of money, but in an effort to keep his expenses to a minimum as well as to avoid non-necessary discarding of working equipment (ecology and such), I went to his home to evaluate the parts he had, to see if we could keep any. I inspect his PC, not much to keep because it's 7 years old and was prebuilt. When we go to hook it back up to his monitor, he looks suddenly upset. It turns out, each time he unplug his monitor or his pc from the wall plug, he has trouble getting his screen to output anything, and that he has to reboot sometimes for two-three hours in a row to get it to work. Over the next hour I tried every cable (HDMI and Displayport), in every port, on the motherboard and the gpu. At this point, I tell him it's not normal, it got to be his monitor. His wife chimes in and tells us he had this problem before having this monitor, and we notice his keyboard does not even light up. I go to get another monitor that I know works, and by the time I came back, he had it working, so we did not try with a new monitor. His keyboard was now lit.
In light of all this, probably because he was fed up (and because the keyboard not litting up had me worried it was the mobo), he decided to change every part of his computer but the HDD he uses for data (the HDD was fine, not corrupted sectors or anything, and it has never been used for the system install, only data), and to keep his monitor because I attributed his problem of no display (despite successful boot) on his mobo. After I laid out the options, he settled for this exact configuration:
​
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z690M DS3H
CPU: Intel Core i5-13600K
RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 2 x 16GB, 3200 MHz, RAM DDR4, DIMM
Case: be quiet! Pure Base 500DX
GPU: EVGA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti FTW3 ULTRA
Ventirad: Noctua NH-D12L
PSU: Seasonic Focus GX 750 W (all 650 were out of stock when we ordered)
SSD: Samsung 870 EVO
+ His old HDD whose references I don't have.
+ His old monitor: a Millenium MD49 DHQD
​
So we receive all the parts, I build them like I always do: carefully. We set up everything so I can install his OS for him. And it does not work. Once again, no display, no lit keyboard, no POST despite the parts in the computers lighting up (RAM led, GPU lights) and fans turning on.
At this point I'm like ok, I had a suspicion it would happen, I brought the other monitor with me right away. We hook up the other monitor. It does not work at all. No POST, no signal, no boot, no nothing. That's when my colleague notice his keyboard does not even light up, exactly like before. Except we changed every single part.
So I took the damn thing home, and I rechecked everything, like so:
​
Compatibility: No problem, checked by reading the various manufacturer's documentation as well as pcpart picker.
Mobo : Spacers well aligned. No loose screws anywhere, no damage visible on mobo, was grounded while putting parts in place so no static electricity, did not put my finger on any sensitive area.
PSU: All powering wires are well in place, I did not forget the CPU power
Bent pins: No bent pin anywhere, not on the mobo, not on the CPU
CPU: The right amount of thermal paste, well in place in his socket, no sign of damage whatsoever, fan turns on when it should.
GPU: Plugged in the right amount of connectors, no sign of damage, fan turns on and light turns on.
Tried: unplugging every USB and booting up without the GPU. Plugging screen on GPU or on mobo (HDMI is all I've got, cable works)
Then I got some reaction:
RAM: First positioned according to the mobo manual. RGB Led on the RAM works. Then tested in every configuration possible, each stick tested in each slot individually, then swaped around. Tested another single stick I had spare but for which I cannot 100% guarantee the compatibility, still no nothing. At that point I decided to be a lil bit smart about it and plug in the mobo speaker (yeah it was a sunday morning, had not yet had my coffee). That's when it get extra weird: when the two sticks are positioned according to the mobo manual, when I turn on the power, for the first 45-50sec nothing happens, then 4 long beeps, and then the pc powers down and turns back on, and it happens indefinitely if you let it. The mobo use AMI Bios, and 4 long beeps means...nothing. After a good amount of search, the closest I've come to is 4 short beeps, meaning system timer failure. Or three short beep and one long, which means AGP error. But nothing for 4 long beeps.
​
At this point I try the various CMOS manipulation: powering down, unplugging, waiting a bit, taking the battery out, putting everything back, no change at all. Then I try the clear CMOS jumper, no change, still 4 long beeps happen, no POST, no display, keyboard still not lit up.
​
What I did not try: changing the battery, as I don't have any at home, but the card is new. Changing for two sticks of RAM that I am 100% sure work.
​
So I'm at a loss. Someone told me that his monitor might have short circuited the mobo, but I have a hard time believing it because his old computer was not toast, it "just" had trouble reckognizing signal after being unplugged, but as long as he only turned it off he had no trouble getting signal. So now I'm starting to believe there's two separate problems.
First: His old monitor (I say old but it is actually quite new) having what is probably connector trouble, because since then we've tried hooking a different computer to it, and we still get no display despite the other computer booting just fine and having a display on another screen.
Second: His new computer having one of the part that's defective. I'm thinking it's bad luck, not necessarily connected, and that we received a defective mobo. The 4 long beeps is puzzling me and before we send it back, I want to be extra sure that we send back the right part. Is there any insight that any of you could provide? Is it the mobo? The RAM? Could the problems be linked? Have I forgotten something very obvious?
What I plan on doing next beside posting here: Getting two sticks of RAM that I am sure work, getting another CMOS battery, if nothing works...I'll send back the mobo. But I have the unexplainable feeling there's something I'm missing.
Sorry for the wall of text, I tried to be as thorough as I could. Thank you for any amount of help or insight you can provide.

I think this happened after a driver update, I always miss out on clipping things because the application wasn't on and I forget to open GeForceExperience. Also, I want to turn off desktop capture, but it doesn't recognize that my game is open for some reason, so I can't clip without it on. Any help is appreciated

Has anyone had issues with updating the software on their June oven? I am stuck on version 1.18.1 and whenever I try to manually update the software it tells me that no updates are available. I would really like to update the oven to have access to the newer features that are available.
On my own I’ve tried restarting the oven multiple times, resetting the oven to its original software, and also moving it right next to the router to ensure no WiFi signal issues.
I’ve also contacted support but, after multiple weeks of follow ups, I still haven’t gotten any help on this.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may have!

Recently got a Steam Deck and have been figuring out how to play my favourite game on it. It has been a bit of a struggle and took me a couple days to figure out the details.
Running the game itself is simple enough through Heroic Launcher and GOG, but that doesn't have Equilibris/HD and many people including myself see near unplayable and slow combat. However I found the way to install the mods and have smooth and lagless performance throughout.

The main fix for the laggy combat is enabling DirectDraw in Wine, so see Step 12 if you're just looking for that.

I provide the full process for anyone else.

1. Enter Desktop Mode by holding the power button.
   
2. Install Heroic Launcher through the built-in Discover app. Use Steam+X to bring up a keyboard for typing, or connect a physical one.
   
3. Go to the Wine Manager tab and install the latest version of Wine-GE (might not be necessary, the next steps are valid for the default Proton-7, use either)
   
4. Install the game either through GOG, or importing. Look up guides for the launcher if you're lost. Select either Wine-GE or Proton 7.
   
5. Navigate to the game's folder in the file manager (/home/deck/Games/Heroic[Game]) and create a folder named "games". This is the default location for Autosaves and for some reason Heroic does not create it. Without it, the game fails to Autosave and gives a warning every time.
   
6. Go back to Game Mode and launch the game for the first time, confirm it works. This part might not be necessary, but it did break for me once if I never launched it without any changes. If it launches successfully, exit the game and go back to Desktop Mode. If not, try repeating the steps, or using a different version of Wine or Proton. Another thing to try would be to enable Virtual Desktop in WINECFG (as suggested by GoneToCanada). Take a look at step 12 on where to find it. Potentially you'd need to disable it after everything.
   Steps 7-11 are optional, depending if you want to use the Equilibris and HD mods. This same process applies to the Ultimate Mod if you're using that instead.
   
7. Either download the Equilibris (+ the fixed .exe they provide) and HD Mod installers directly there, or plug in an SD Card/USB stick with the files ready.
   
8. Replace heroes4.exe now (part of the usual Equilibris installation) before installing the mod. Find the directory in the file manager (/home/deck/Games/Heroic[Game]).
   
9. Still in Desktop Mode, open Heroic Launcher, find the game and open the settings. Scroll down and press the "RUN EXE ON PREFIX" button, find the Equilibris installation .exe and open it. Give it a few seconds to launch after that and manually navigate to the game's directory (/home/deck/Games/Heroic/[Game]) to install it.
   
10. Repeat the previous step for the HD mod.
    
11. Still in Desktop Mode, open (again) the settings of the game in Heroic Launcher, scroll down to Other and find the field "Select an alternative EXE to run". Select the h4mod.exe from the game's folder for this. This will make Heroic launch Equilibris by default.
    
12. Scroll up and press the "WINECFG" button, go to Libraries and in the "New override for library" field, manually type in "ddraw" and press Add. Press OK on the warning message. This enables the game to run using DirectDraw and makes it all run smoothly.
    
13. That's it, you can now go back to Game Mode and launch the game to test it out. If you're using the mods, it should launch Equilibris and the HD mod should have made the game 1200x800 by default. Use the Add game to Steam function in Heroic to have the game easily reachable in Game Mode. Happy gaming.
    

I suggest using the Mouse only or Mouse and Keyboard controller layouts (through the Steam menu) for this, just so the trackpad and triggers emulate a mouse.
The DirectDraw fix is likely applicable to multiple other old 2D games, but I have not yet tried anything out besides this one.

I think I fucked up- I've been aggressively cleaning this convection oven for weeks with steel wool, baking soda and soap.
I use it regularly to cook chicken breasts and the fat/liquid just splashes everywhere.
I have been noticing black specks in my food recently which alerted me to consult the manual
https://www.manua.ls/tefal/new-delice-xl-of285865/manual?p=9
Apparently I'm not supposed to use sponges, much less steel wool? I'm not too sure what to make of the graphics
I don't even know which parts are damaged because everything is dark coloured. What do I do?

2.25.0.54 -> 2.25.1.19

• Sound changes : Aircrafts Effects, Aircrafts Engines, Aircrafts Guns, Ships Explosions, Ships Weapons, Tanks Effects, Tanks Engines, Tanks Explosions, Tanks Objects Crash, Tanks Weapons
• New Loading Screen : Mobile Infantry
• Human camera :
  • FPS -> TPS
  • Now has a sight view
• HE-DP now causes impact marks
• New DM and X-Ray parts :
  • Frame
  • Helmet
  • Body armor
  • Body shield
  • Chest armor
  • Head
  • Chest
  • Right arm
  • Left arm
  • Right leg
  • Left leg
  • Left engine
  • Right engine
• Dust caused by aircraft collision no longer has explosion sound FX
• New FX :
  • Jetpack
  • Jetpack start
• Shell (in belts) icon colors changed :
  • AP : Silver -> Red
  • APC, AP-T : Silver - Green -> Red - Green
  • APHE, API, SAPHEI, SAPI : Red -> Red - Blue
  • APHE-T, API-T : Red - Green -> Red - Blue - Green
  • AP-I(c) : Red -> Black
• Track sounds : part of SFX volume -> part of My engine volume (50 - 100% possible volume -> 27 - 100% possible volume)
• New UAV engine sound for the new UAV
• New AI type : Quadcopter (it can hover)
• New armor type : Aramid-fabric (basically CHA, but with 0.2x quality modifier instead of 0.94)
• New Aircraft : UAV Raven's Eye
• A109, A129 (all) :
  • FBW mode 3 : Aileron and elevator modes : Velocity -> Position
  • SAS changes
• D.371 H.S.9 : Can't use flaps anymore
• D.500, D.501, D.510 (all), D.521, F2A-3, Fw 189 A-1, He 177 A-5, Potez 633, Yak-4 : Updated FM format
• D.520 (all), Potez 630, Potez 631, Yak-2 KABB : Instructor and SAS changes
• F-4E, F-4E (ISR), F-4F (all), F-4S :
  • Wing drag with raised flaps increased
  • Fuselage aerodynamics changed
• Hkp 2, SE 313 B, SA 316 B, Z9 (all), Z11WA, Z19 (all) : SAS changes
• J6K1 :
  • Wing with raised flaps : Oswald efficiency number : 0.85 -> 0.71
  • Wing with full flaps, horizontal stabilizer and vertical stabilizer aerodynamics changed
  • Fuselage area : 11 -> 13.2 m2
  • Propeller #1 :
    • Pitch : 18.63 -> 17.7°
    • Width : 0.16 -> 0.15 m
  • Propeller #2 :
    • Pitch : 7 -> 8.69°
    • Width : 0.2 -> 0.22 m
  • Propeller aerodynamics changed
  • Propeller mass : 140 -> 230 kg
  • Propeller Governor : Pitch : [20, 74] -> [32, 80]°
  • Instructor and SAS changes
• La-15, La-174 : No longer have Combat Flaps
• MiG-21bis (all) :
  • Water temperatures lowered for RPM < 11000
  • Water temperatures increased for RPM > 11000
  • Oil temperatures increased
• MiG-23BN, MiG-23MF, MiG-23ML (all), MiG-27 (all), Su-22M3 :
  • Turbine RPM For 0% Throttle : 0.465 -> 0.4
  • Water temperatures lowered for RPM < 5000
  • Water temperatures increased for RPM > 5000
• MiG-23M :
  • Water temperatures lowered for RPM < 5000
  • Water temperatures increased for RPM > 5000
• P-39N-0 :
  • Horizontal stabilizer and vertical stabilizer aerodynamics changed
  • Water and oil temperatures lowered for RPM > 3000
  • Instructor and SAS changes
• P-39N-0 (Pokryshkin) : Water and oil temperatures lowered for RPM > 3000
• Su-7 (all) : FBW mode 1 :
  • Elevator mode : Rate -> Manual
  • Rudder mode : Manual -> Rate
  • SAS changes
• Tornado F. Mk. 3 :
  • Max G-load increased at 0% and 50% wing sweep in the positive direction by about 0.42 - 0.22 G depending on fuel and weapon load
  • Max G-load increased at 100% wing sweep in the positive direction by about 1.21 - 0.63 G depending on fuel and weapon load
  • Wings and horizontal stabilizer aerodynamics changed
  • Aileron lift sensitivity changed
  • Elevator angle multipliers and sensitivity multipliers changed
  • Instructor :
    • forceAdvanced : false -> true
    • preciseRotStopDetection : true -> false
  • Added a radar page to the cockpit MFD
  • Laser designator and IR tracker sensors removed
• Tornado G.R. Mk. 1, Tornado IDS (IT) :
  • Max G-load increased at 50% wing sweep in the positive direction by about 0.43 - 0.22 G depending on fuel and weapon load
  • Max G-load increased at 100% wing sweep in the positive direction by about 0.72 - 0.37 G depending on fuel and weapon load
  • Wings and horizontal stabilizer aerodynamics changed
  • Aileron lift sensitivity changed
  • Elevator angle multipliers and sensitivity multipliers changed
  • Instructor :
    • forceAdvanced : false -> true
    • preciseRotStopDetection : true -> false
• Tornado IDS (all GER) :
  • Max G-load increased at 50% wing sweep in the positive direction by about 0.42 - 0.22 G depending on fuel and weapon load
  • Max G-load increased at 100% wing sweep in the positive direction by about 0.70 - 0.36 G depending on fuel and weapon load
  • Wings and horizontal stabilizer aerodynamics changed
  • Aileron lift sensitivity changed
  • Elevator angle multipliers and sensitivity multipliers changed
  • Instructor :
    • forceAdvanced : false -> true
    • preciseRotStopDetection : true -> false
• Wirraway : VNE : 437 -> 580 km/h
• Yak-141 :
  • Wing span : 10 -> 10.2 m
  • Inner wing area : 5.12 -> 5.62 m2
  • Wings with raised flaps :
    • Oswald efficiency number : 0.71 -> 0.79
    • Aerodynamics changed, drag increased
  • Wings with full flaps :
    • Oswald efficiency number : 0.7 -> 0.76
    • Aerodynamics changed
  • Fuselage and vertical stabilizer aerodynamics changed, drag increased
  • Horizontal stabilizer :
    • Span : 5.13 -> 6.2 m
    • Area : 6.2 -> 0.01 m2
    • Elevator area : 0.01 -> 6.2 m2
    • Aerodynamics changed
  • Elevator angle multipliers changed
  • Afterburner thrust multiplier increased at 10 km 1400+ km/h TAS
  • Afterburner thrust multiplier increased at 12 km 1800+ km/h TAS
  • Water temperatures increased for RPM > 7300
• New Sensors :
  • A "1RL33" track radar for the MANPADS exoskeleton, but it's that only in name, as it only has 90° search and IRST track, with less range and power)
  • Another IR tracker, a modified version of the one used in targeting pods, with half the vertical range (for the UAV Raven's Eye)
• New artillery : 155 mm M777 with high-precision shells
• New "Tanks" :
  • Assault (US and USSR)
  • Antitank (US and USSR)
  • AA Gunner (US and USSR)
  • Sniper (US and USSR)
• 9A35M2 Strela-10M2 : New Skins :
  • Deforming tricolor camouflage
  • Late desert camouflage
• New Ground Weapons :
  • 8.6 mm MG338 machine gun
  • 12.7 mm 6P51 machine gun
  • 21 mm smoke grenade launcher with 3D27 grenades
  • 30 mm 2A72S semi-automatic sniper cannon (copy-paste XM914A)
  • 30 mm XM914A semi-automatic sniper cannon
  • 43 mm GM-93P under-barrel grenade launcher with VK-94 grenades
  • 9M115M
  • 9M133M6 (9M133 with 1600 mm penetration instead of 1200 mm)
  • 9M336M1 (9M336 (which is a 9M39V copy itself) with the following differences :
    • Warm-up time : 5 -> 1.5 sec
    • Uncaged seeker
    • FoV : 2 -> 0.75°
    • Inner FoV : 1 -> 0.5°
    • Gimbal limit : 38 -> 8°
    • Can lock ground targets
    • Guidance delay : 0.5 -> 0 sec
    • Lofts
    • Has 400 mm HEAT penetration)
  • APILAS
  • FIM-92X (FIM-92E with the following differences :
    • Warm-up time : 4 -> 1.5 sec
    • FoV : 3 -> 0.75°
    • Can lock ground targets
    • Guidance delay : 0.5 -> 0 sec
    • Lofts
    • Has 400 mm HEAT penetration)
  • RPG-28
  • Spike-SR4
  • Spike-SR4ME
  • TOW-2N (copy-paste TOW-2A)
• New UI icons :
  • bullet_cannon_black : https://i.imgur.com/4G6QTkU.png
  • bullet_cannon_red_blue : https://i.imgur.com/zMq0MQs.png
  • bullet_cannon_red_blue_green : https://i.imgur.com/qdpnqi8.png
  • bullet_gun_black : https://i.imgur.com/65yUDz1.png
  • bullet_gun_red_blue : https://i.imgur.com/fuifXYQ.png
  • bullet_gun_red_blue_green : https://i.imgur.com/j3t5rr5.png
  • exoskelet_grenade_launcher : https://i.imgur.com/EKDOkIh.png
  • exoskelet_jump : https://i.imgur.com/nMkQFmT.png
  • exoskelet_machinegun : https://i.imgur.com/KbnFVfs.png
  • exoskelet_run : https://i.imgur.com/kTCF22k.png
  • exoskelet_sight : https://i.imgur.com/ltFIW5o.png
  • quadrotor_hovering : https://i.imgur.com/qOIxwc3.png
  • quadrotor_streak : https://i.imgur.com/byZPBzG.png
  • supportplane_to_exoskelet : https://i.imgur.com/aDqsKah.png
• New tech-tree icons :
  • UAV Raven's Eye : https://i.imgur.com/3AP4RvM.png
  • Assault : https://i.imgur.com/x6w6G63.png
• New tank decorations :
  • Grenade launcher : https://i.imgur.com/2PGIkRK.png
  • 8-mm machine gun : https://i.imgur.com/So7N48T.png
  • Quadcopter (black) : https://i.imgur.com/6BRa2Hb.png
  • Tactical Helmet : https://i.imgur.com/S0fOwDi.png
• Cannibal Axe, Ceremonial Kris, Chainsaw, Slasher’s Hatchet, Slasher’s Mask decorations : No longer hidden, now have Marketplace links
• "SDI Forces - Harpy" badge, "SDI Forces - Hydra" badge, "SDI Forces - Minotaur" badge, TailSpin decals : No longer hidden, now have Marketplace links
• Added some of the groundwork for the crafting event
• Nevada (BB-36), Pr. 204, Terra Nova (DDE 259) : Added back the ability to skip researching them, for some reason?
• Typhoon F.B. Mk. Ib : No longer hidden, it can be bought for 1930 GE (Royal Air Force Day)
• New Vehicles :
  • UAV Raven's Eye (US) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 10.7
    • Repair Cost : 4860 / 4860 / 4860 SL
  • Assault (US) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • Antitank (US) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • AA Gunner (US) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • Sniper (US) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • Assault (USSR) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • Antitank (USSR) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • AA Gunner (USSR) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
  • Sniper (USSR) :
    • Hidden
    • Rank 7
    • BR : 11.3
    • Stock Repair Cost : 8050 / 7310 / 8810 SL
• Increased the hangar repair time of all ground vehicles. (don't worry, it's reverted next update)
• Added new HUD and controls for the exoskeletons
• New avatars :
  • Gerard Roope : https://i.imgur.com/JrBa8mh.png
    • During World War II Gerard Roope, commander of HMS Glowworm, was the first to perform a heroic deed deserving of a Victoria Cross, the highest military award of the British forces. On April 8th, 1940, near the coast of Norway Glowworm found itself outgunned against the German heavy cruiser Admiral Hipper. Heavily damaged Glowworm rammed the enemy ship, piercing her hull, and fired a last shot before capsizing. Gerard Roope perished helping the crew escape the sinking ship. Hellmuth Heye, commander of the Admiral Hipper, was so impressed by Roope's actions that he wrote a letter to the British authorities recommending him for an award.
  • Mobile Warrior : https://i.imgur.com/sSW6Vwh.png
    • Soldier of a special detachment of mobile infantry
• New control texts :
  • "Lack of oxygen" (a WTM text ported over, curious)
  • "Infantryman aiming (X-axis)"
  • "Infantryman aiming (Y-axis)"
  • "View in battle - Infantry (X-axis)"
  • "View in battle - Infantry (Y-axis)"
  • "Movement"
  • "Infantryman"
  • "Move axis"
  • "Strafe axis"
  • "Jump"
  • "Fast run"
• New loading tips :
  • "To use the surveillance aircraft, press {{ID_START_SUPPORT_PLANE_SHIP}}, rotate the catapult and press {{ID_START_SUPPORT_PLANE_SHIP}} again"
  • "To activate the tracking camera, press {{ID_FIRE_GM}} after the shot"
  • "To show the control help list, press {{ID_HELP}}"
  • "In the menu, you can turn a single button fire with main and auxiliary guns: main caliber fires first, then auxiliary by another press."
  • "For switching between the ship and surveillance aircraft press {{ID_START_SUPPORT_PLANE_SHIP}}"
  • "For enabling surveillance aircraft flying in orbit press {{ID_SUPPORT_PLANE_ORBITING_SHIP}}"
• New mission objective text for newbie [Ground Strike] : "Destroy the enemy planes"
• New PC UI text : "32-bit version of the game is not supported."
• New vehicle names : The names of the aforementioned new vehicles
• Vehicles renamed :
  • T-55M (SWE), T-72M1 (SWE) : Added a Finnish roundel
  • Bf 109 F-4 (IT), Bf 109 G-2 (IT), Bf 110 G-4 (IT), Toldi IIa, Turán II, Zrínyi I (Sorozatvető) : Added a Hungarian roundel
  • "HMS Nepal" -> "HMAS Nepal"
• New engine and transmission names :
  • "MT-883" (previously it was only in Belorussian, French, Hungarian, Russian and Ukrainian localisations for some reason)
  • "HSWL 295" (previously it was only in Belorussian, French, Hungarian, Russian and Ukrainian localisations for some reason)
• New weapon texts :
  • The names of the aforementioned new weapons
  • "8.6 mm machine gun shell rack filled with %s bullets"
  • "30 mm ZPZ02 cannon" (Nothing uses it, IRL used on Chinese IFVs, crafting event reward?)
• New weapon type texts (for unlock conditions) :
  • "Unguided bomb"
  • "Guided bomb"
• New maps : (all three are used in the Mobile Infantry event)
  • [Domination] modern_city
  • [Domination] north_town
  • [Domination] soviet_town
• [Historical Campaign] Counterattack :
  • Enterprise (CV-6) : module HP : 18000 -> 7500
  • Player's and their squad's armament : Type 91 Kai 2 -> Type 91 Kai 3
  • Player's squad's size : 4 -> 6 aircraft
• [Single Player] The Hardest Day :
  • Player's spawn moved
  • Player's squad's size : 2 -> 4
  • Added 2 AI Spitfire Mk. Ia
  • Waypoints and radar area moved
• [Single Player] Blind Hunt :
  • Airfield moved
  • Airfield width : 80 -> 120 m
• [Single Player] Storm Warning :
  • The player's and their squad's MiG-15bis now have Airframe, Compressor, Cover, Engine, Fuselage repair, G-suit and New boosters modifications
  • Enemy scout aircraft : F-86A-5 -> F-84G, spawn moved
  • Waypoints moved
• [Single Player] Airfield Under Attack :
  • Airfield moved
  • Airfield width : 80 -> 120 m
  • Player's and their squad's Me 262 A-1a now have Airframe, Compressor, Cover, Engine and Fuselage repair modifications
  • Player's squad's size : 4 -> 2
  • Enemy Spitfire F. Mk. XVI (e) (CW) spawn moved, their number lowered : 16 -> 8
• [Single Player] Operation Husky :
  • Player's spawn moved
  • Initial Bf 109 F-4 wave : 10 -> 6
  • Third Bf 109 F-4 wave : 8 -> 6
  • Ship spawns moved
  • 4x low quality Sims (DD-409) -> 4x high quality Churchill (I 45)
  • 1x low quality Sims (DD-409) -> 1x Leander (75)
  • Number of LCVPs : 20 -> 24
  • Added 4x Liberty cargo ships
  • Added 13x bunkers
• [Single Player] Don't throw the friends :
  • Player's spawn moved
  • Player's and their squad's CR.42bis now have Cover and Fuselage repair modifications
  • Enemy I-15 (SGR-1820) spawns moved
  • Ship spawns moved
  • Added 2 fishing boats
• New statcard images :
  • UAV Raven's Eye : https://i.imgur.com/rXooyYN.png
  • Assault : https://i.imgur.com/R8vFd7M.png

Current Dev version : 2.25.1.24
Current Live version : 2.25.1.23

I am only accepting PayPal F&F.
Shipping is not included. Open to bundle offers.
If you have a panic playdate for trade, hit me up on gameswap.
-------
Some 3ds consoles from my collection. Check the pictures of what's included and tried my best to capture any cosmetic damage. Price is firm for single purchase, + $10 for shipping. Bundle discount is available if you purchase a console + some games from my list below.
Nintendo 3DS XL Pokemon X Y Red Limited Edition ($220) - https://imgur.com/a/S4ixIth
New Nintendo 3DS XL Monster Hunter 4 Edition ($240) - https://imgur.com/a/ciGBtd9 The volume button is stuck, may need to clear the button to make it work, otherwise there's no other issues except cosmetic wear.
Nintendo 3DS XL Retro NES Edition ($240) - https://imgur.com/a/jxpaHl7
New Nintendo 3DS XL Galaxy ($300) - https://imgur.com/a/uWWHhmg
Nintendo 3ds Xl Pokemon X Y Blue Limited Edition ($440) - https://imgur.com/a/3JY7Yh4
-------
​

$175	Shantae: half genie hero, pirate curse, risky revenge director's cut, slipcover	Selling as a bundle, all sealed	PS5
$40	Cthulhu Save Christmas	Sealed	PS5
$55	River city girls	Sealed	PS5
$75	Uncharted golden abyss	Sealed, small tear at the back	PS Vita
$60	Mvp baseball 2005	Sealed	Gamecube
$15	Dragon Ball Z Budokai player choice	Game, case, manual	Gamecube
$225	Pikmin	Sealed	Gamecube
$25	4 gameboy coloadvance lot (all loose) include pac-man collection GBA, spongebob square pants, lizzie mcguire 3 gba, tetris	All loose, selling as a bundle only	Gameboy Advance
$950	Mario and luigi superstar saga (sealed)	Sealed	Gameboy advance
$1200	Sealed gameboy color teal	Sealed, great condition	Gameboy Color
$30	Nano Assault	Loose	3ds
$80	Kid icarus uprising	CIB, not big box, cover art has some minor damage	3ds
$8	Yokai watch	Loose	3ds
$5	Mario Vs donkey kong mini land	Manual only	DS
$5	ATV Quad Frenzy	Loose	DS
$25	Dig Dug Digging Strike	CIB, sticker residue on the front	DS
$10	Super monkey ball touch & roll	Game, case, manual	DS
$30	3 wii games bundle include Truck racer, Miniclip Sushi Go-Round, Brave A Warrior's Tale	All games are sealed. Sealed game top right seal is broken. Selling as a bundle	Wii
$420 + shipping	Nintendo switch OLED scarlet and violet	Brand new, box has minor shipping damage	Switch console

​
​

$50	2064: Read Only Memories	Sealed	Switch
$50	Arc Of Alchemist	Sealed	Switch
$30	Battle Chef Brigade Deluxe	CIB, LRG variant	Switch
$30	Battle Chef Brigade Deluxe	CIB, Bestbuy variant	Switch
$45	Black Bird	Sealed	Switch
$50	BloodRayne Betrayal: Fresh Bites	Sealed	Switch
$105	Bloodrayne 1 & 2: Revamped [Dual Pack]	Sealed	Switch
$100	Bloodstained curse of the moon	CIB, best buy variant	Switch
$60	Bloodstained curse of the moon 2	PAX west variant, sealed, small cut on the plastic cover	Switch
$40	DARQ complete edition	Sealed	Switch
$95	Deponia Collection	Sealed	Switch
$45	Doom	CIB	Switch
$60	Doom the classic collection	Sealed	Switch
$45	Double Dragon Neon	Sealed, LRG variant	Switch
$60	Dusk	Sealed	Switch
$55	Fairy Tail	Game, case, insert	Switch
$48	Fire emblem engage	Standard edition, sealed, ESRB UAE version	Switch
$120 shipped	Fire emblem engage divine edition	Top seal broken, box is in decent condition	Switch
$33	Giga Wrecker ALT	Sealed, LRG variant	Switch
$35	Grand mountain adventure	Sealed	Switch
$35	Gris	LRG variant, sealed	Switch
$35	Hyper Parasite	Sealed	Switch
$30	Ion Fury	CIB	Switch
$85	Jay And Silent Bob: Mall Brawl	Sealed	Switch
$65	Langrisser I & II	Game, case, insert	Switch
$45	Last day of June	Sealed	Switch
$46	Mercenary Kings	CIB	Switch
$75	Metal Unit super rare games	Sealed	Switch
$60	Monster Sanctuary	Sealed	Switch
$100	Minecraft: Story Mode Season Two	CIB	Switch
$50	Murder By Numbers Playasia edition	Sealed	Switch
$45	Night Trap	CIB	Switch
$35	Omori	Sealed	Switch
$60	Oninaki	Sealed, JPN version	Switch
$50	Quake	Sealed	Switch
$60	Rogue Heroes Ruins Of Tasos	Sealed	Switch
$80	Super mario party joycon bundle box only	BOX ONLY, no game or joycons, mint condition	Switch
$50	Shantae LRG variant	Sealed	Switch
$43	Shantae risky revenge director's cut	Sealed	Switch
$56	Shantae and the seven sirens	Bestbuy variant	Switch
$65	Shantae and the seven sirens	LRG variant	Switch
$50	Slime-San Superslime Edition	CIB	Switch
$35	Ms. Splosion Man	CIB	Switch
$160	Stranger Things 3: The Game standard edition	Sealed	Switch
$50	The missing	Sealed	Switch
$20	Valkyria Chronicles 4	Case and joycon skin only no game	Switch
$45	World's End Club Deluxe Edition	Sealed	Switch
$15	Witcher 3 wild hunt complete edition	No game, PEGI, box and insert and case	Switch

​
Adam's venture origins - $30
Creature in the well (sealed) - $50
Captain Tsubasa Rise of the new champions - $20
Deemo - $50
Disgaea 5 Japanese version with English - $45
Doom 64 - $40
HOA (pax west exclusive variant with sunflower seeds, sealed) - $100
HOA (sticker residue from gamestop) - $30
Knights And Bikes limited run (sealed) - $45
Oxenfree (no game, just case and manual) - $35
Pokemon Lets Go Pikachu (loose) - $35
River city girls (Asia version with English support) - $60
Salt and sanctuary (sealed, drowned tome edition) - $140
Sniper elite 4 (sealed) - $35
Super bomber man R (PAL) - $15
Towerfall bestbuy edition (sealed) - $40
Tiny Barbarian launch edition CIB - $20
World end's club deluxe edition bestbuy cover (sealed) - $40
​
No case:
Bubble Bobble 4 Friends (minor damage on the cartridge covert art) - $30
Lego Marvel Super Heroes - $25
Star Wars: Jedi Knights II: Jedi Outcast - $30
​
​

Trading cards

Super rare games
- The lions song sealed pack $10
- Mundaun sealed pack $10
- Last day of June sealed pack $10
​

Gamecube manual only

Warioware $30
Mario Party 5 - $25
F zero gx - $25

I used to build PC's regularly, but my last system was meant to be sorta 'future-proof'. The parts were good for the time, and it lasted me 9 years, so I feel like that was a success.
I wanted to build during lockdown but GPU prices sucked. My old GPU was $300, and and when I shopped around, I was shocked to see it was selling for more than I paid for it. Now it can be had used for like $70.
I want this PC to last a while. I gradually turned into one of those guys who mostly replays the same old favorites (FO, skyrim, etc)... but now that I can run good AAA titles, I will try some modern games. Maybe see what emulation is possible.
It took some troubleshooting, mostly dumb errors from being VERY rusty in PC building. Details below. Also, obligatory pics with cat tax included: https://imgur.com/a/WAadEsM
PCPartPicker Part List

Type	Item	Price
CPU	AMD Ryzen 5 7600 3.8 GHz 6-Core Processor	$229.00 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler	be quiet! Pure Rock 2 Black CPU Cooler	$44.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard	ASRock B650 PG LIGHTNING ATX AM5 Motherboard	$199.99 @ Amazon
Memory	G.Skill Flare X5 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-5600 CL36 Memory	$219.99 @ Newegg
Storage	Western Digital Blue SN570 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive	$32.99 @ Amazon
Storage	Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200 RPM Internal Hard Drive	$47.00 @ Amazon
Video Card	Zotac GAMING Twin Edge OC GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR 8 GB Video Card	$409.99 @ Newegg
Case	NZXT H510i ATX Mid Tower Case	$106.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply	EVGA 650 GQ 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply	$102.08 @ Amazon
	Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
	Total	$1392.93
	Generated by PCPartPicker 2023-03-31 21:41 EDT-0400

. . So in terms of purchasing, I dunno if I was optimal. I basically trust Logical Increments to do the homework. Their builds always work, take advantage of specials where possible, and fine tune carefully for each budget. For example, out of the 16 'tiers', this build used an AMD CPU, but most of their builds use 12th/13th gen Intel (including the tier above and below mine). I guess the R5 7600 hits some sweet spot.
It was supposed to cost $1200. But I fucked up and overbought RAM. I thought my apps used mode than they do. I do some video editing, 3D rendering, lots of photo editing, and generally just run a lot of stuff at the same time, with many chrome tabs. But I can't seem to even get to 25% RAM usage. Probably 32 GB woulda been fine (even overkill). The extra $100 should have gone to a nicer GPU.
$1400 is more than I ever spent in the past, but we're in a time of inflation and when you factor that this might last another 7-10 years, it's OK. GPU prices are finally back in line.
Boring build story: I always do a breadboard. Well, it's a bit more than the bare minimum to boot. but I try to get it boot with just CPU, 1 stick of ram, and in this case GPU. The motherboard has integrated graphics but I'm not using them.
When I flipped the switch on my PSU, I got nothing, no post, and wondered if I missed a step.
Didn't panic. Reseated everything. Then I remembered you could run a wire between two pins of the CPU's main power connector, to see if it's functional. I got irritated when I realized I had no paper clips in the entire house, but biting off the ends of a twist tie works. Watch this guy with the coke nails explain the trick: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nfYwKPtDiw4&t=242s (4:03)
So the PSU was fine. What I finally figured out is... I needed to actually turn on the computer. I know that sounds retardedly obvious, but when I flipped on that PSU, I truly expected to see SOMEthing, a light or a "good morning" fan spin. This rig doesn't do any of that. Maybe I misremember seeing that in the past.
Anyway after using a screwdriver to bridge the motherboard's power pins, it booted right up. Got windows installed. I was a little worried that the PSU didn't include a secondary 6-pin connector for the socket next to the CPU's main 8-pin connector. But I guess that's for a beefier CPU than mine, the 6-pin connector is fine by itself.
Side rant: I hate how power connectors are WAAAAY too snug and the CPU clamp is WAAAAAY too tight. I know the CPU can't move at all or instant BSOD/shutdown/whatever. But it weighs as much as a tennis ball and sits still on a desk. It doesn't need a clamp that can hold a canoe to a roof rack. And reseating the main power connector is a huge pain in the balls. I had to break off the plastic latch/ckip and wedge a knife blade into the seam to gradually work it back out of the socket. Mountain climbers could use it instead of caribiner clips. In fact, from now on I'm breaking off that pointless plastic clip, I've never seen a main connector or molex that wasn't absurdly tight.
I got errors running an old installer for a game (one that worked fine on the old PC), which I found alarming. Googling suggested installer used a ton of ram. One smart poster said it might be sensitive not just to ram amount, but timings. I installed premiere and edited some video... BSOD. A really weird, annoying kind of BSOD: the crash screen and text appeared on top of premiere as semi-transparent, and the text was white sitting on a white background. So I couldn't read it. I got it again but this time could make out the word "memory". I was concerned I had a defective RAM stick.
I remembered a previous build problem where a PC would only boot when paired with older RAM. I theorized that was because when it detected the old ram, both sticks were forced to run at lower speed. So I went into BIOS to see what the RAM clock speed and timings looked like. It was set to "Auto" so I manually set it to the speed it's rated for, 5200, and that surprisingly worked. Every since changing that single setting, the game that failed to install like 5 times, installed fine. Premiere has never crashed since (several weeks now). So I'm pleased to have figured that out and not wasted money buying different RAM when this batch is fine. . . Parts sorta-review: At first I was at first disappointed at how the video card didn't seem to be that great. First I tried one of my simple 3D renders and it was weirdly slow. But then I found out blender not only has the option of using CPU or GPU, it has options for different API's to talk to your video card. I set it to CUDA (which is specific to Nvidia cards) and it was over 10x faster. Fallout 4 load screens sucked, but that's because load screens are tied to frame rate, which is locked at 60 fps. This mod unlocks framerates during any load screen and now it's done in seconds.
The only part I don't 100% love is the case. It's made to look as simple and minimal as possible. So they hide the power and USB connector on top instead of in front. And they only put 2 USB in front. So it's less convenient to reach and a couple of items I usually plug into the front, now go in back. It also weighs a ton, and has rubber feet, so it won't move easily when you're trying to scoot it around on the desk during the building process. There's a big flat metal strip for hiding/organizing cables but it's just in the way. Also the hard drive cage can be removed, but you gotta get underneath the case and undo two screws. My old build, simple plastic clips held the HDD's and you can just slide them into place and they'd lock. I had to remove the cage to screw them in place.
Other than that, no complaints, running smoothly, only slight concern is GPU idles at 47°C doing nothing but browsing. That seems to be a hair above the high end of normal. I never messed with fan curves or overclocking it, so I'm gonna run DDU and update to the newest driver, see if it helps. The fans apparently don't kick on until 50° but it still seems like something isn't optimal. Maybe bad case airflow.

I have a GE oven and whenever I bake/roast, even with convection off, I hear a low pitch constant humming sound. It seems to be emanating from the 2 corners of the stove closest to the wall, and I can only hear it while standing at the corners of the stove. When I move right in front of the stove the sound disappears (I assume it's cancelling at that location). Also this only happens when I use the oven, not the upper stovetop.
I actually just moved so this was my first time using that oven. Previous ovens might have made a similar noise but not as noticeable as this one. Should I be concerned about this?
The model number is JCBP800ST1SS
​

I have a Mabe GE oven and whenever I bake/roast, even with convection off, I hear a very low pitch constant humming sound. It seems to be emanating from the 2 corners of the stove closest to the wall, and I can only hear it while standing at the corners of the stove. It's noticeable even standing 10 meters away, and especially when I get close. But when I move right in front of the stove the sound disappears (I assume it's cancelling at that location). Also this only happens when I use the oven, not the stovetop. I actually just moved so this was my first time using that oven. Previous ovens might have made a similar noise but not as noticeable as this one. Should I be concerned about this? The model number is JCBP800ST1SS

I have a Mabe GE oven and whenever I bake/roast, even with convection off, I hear a low pitch constant humming sound. It seems to be emanating from the 2 corners of the stove closest to the wall, and I can only hear it while standing at the corners of the stove. When I move right in front of the stove the sound disappears (I assume it's cancelling at that location). Also this only happens when I use the oven, not the stovetop. I actually just moved so this was my first time using that oven. Previous ovens might have made a similar noise but not as noticeable as this one. Should I be concerned about this? The model number is JCBP800ST1SS

Looking to trade locally in the LA area. Will look at other games as well
Have:

• Nes games, hard case, 10 cart leather case

Ice hockey, 3-d world runner, RBI baseball
Excitebike, Ski or die, Mario / duck hunt
Rad racer, Faxanadu, Trojan
Tetris 2, Dr Mario, Double dribble
Kage, Mickey
​

• Atari Video Game Vintage 80's Activision Award Patches
• Not for sale Pathway to Glory (N GaGe)
• Monster Hunter Tri controller bundle (Sealed) W/ Demo (Sealed) (Wii)
• Mario DDR W/ mat (Gamecube)
• Nintendo Power posters: Shadow Hearts, Fire Emblem, Zelda, Star wars

​

• PS4 Games

Rage 2 (Sealed), Resident Evil 2, Street fighter 5, Death Stranding
Yooka Laylee, Borderlands Collection (Sealed, small tear),
Elder Scrolls online, Borderland 3 (Sealed), Tekken 7,
Tales of Zesteria, Dying Light, Tetris Effect,
South Park, Crash, Devil May Cry 5, Fifa
​

• psp games and movies

Gripshift, Killzone, Coded arms
Burnout, Namco museum
Boogeyman (sealed)
Exorcism (sealed)
Grudge (has plastic tears, loose umd)
Mr and Mrs smith (sealed)
Xxx
Species
​
Miscellaneous

• Mario and Peach Convention Exclusive
• Funko
• Wolverine VS. Sabretooth 1997 Marvel LE Miniature 2947/10,000
• Batman FAO Schwarz Exclusive Collection Set of 3 12" Figures 1996

​
Wants:
Gameboy

• Acrylic Cases
• Mega man 2 and 3
• Pokemon GBC system

GameCube

• Eternal darkness
• Zatch bell
• Mega man transmission

Nes

• Acrylic Cases
• Mega man 2-5
• Felix the cat
• Metal Storm
• Contra Force

3ds

• Kirby battle royale
• Super street fighter
• Guide louvre

Switch

• Metroid prime
• Metroid Dread
• Paper Mario
• Pokémon sword + expansion pack
• Ninja gaiden master collection

Ps1

• Vagrant story- disc only
• Legend of legaia- disc only
• Rhapdosy- disc only

Ps2

• Wild arms 5- disc only
• Futurama- box and manual only

PS4

• Hollow knight collectors edition
• Salt and Sanctuary
• Sackboy: A Big Adventure [Special Edition]
• VR (NEW)

Recently noticed the pizza oven attachment’s instruction manual specifically states: “If you have installed the thermal blanket, you MUST remove it when using the pizza attachment.”
I live in Nebraska and wind is a constant, so I’ve traditionally left the thermal blanket on my GMG and am curious if anyone knows why these two modifications are incompatible? Is there a serious risk? Or is this a “we put a warning in the manual so you can’t sue us later” type of warning? Appreciate any insight.

I had an old savegame which I continued today, it was from early 2021. I assigned to hunters to the hunter lodge, get them knives, assigned work to them - but they where just standing around and starring at each other. How can I get them to work? After 6 days of sleep, they didn't collect anything - wether feathers nor flesh.
Same goes for my cook. I put flesh in the kitchen box, but it keeps rotting and the cook is doing some stuff at the oven, without any flour. But food storage doesn't go up.
The only ones I can notice working are the lumberjack and the farmer. But they keep putting their "harvest" into their own boxes at work. I have to transfer everything manually to the material storage. Is this intended?
It's some kind of frustrating to do micromanagement for those lazy bastards.

I have a 10 year old MSI GT70 which previous GPU, GTX 675MX died and I made an upgrade that was known to be possible to a GTX 970M. That also included upgrading the BIOS and EC of the laptop to make 970M work. Games work but look at how Myst was, I blamed it on the devs since Myst and Hellblade, another game I play have terrible visual glitches but another game (Plague Tale) was not having such issues. Then again after upgrading to 970M I also couldn't run Sea of Thieves and OBS studio both because of nvwgf2umx.dll error.
I always knew that updated drivers are good but I had no idea it was going to fix EVERYTHING.
If you play other games may have heard that diablo 4 beta kind of bricked a bunch of GeForce RTX 3080 Ti or 3070 Ti and alike. The game required a new driver to even run and it is what made me go this way. So as I posted I replaced the GPU with GTX 970M but the latest driver for me was GRD 353.54 from 2018. I didn't care because I saw games ran, although some had terrible visual glitches like Myst and Hellblade.
you can see what glitches, it killed the immersion to some extent: https://i.imgur.com/WFd5cPp.jpg
For some reason GeForce Exp never notified of newer driver and gave 353 as latest. I tried manually downloading the latest like GRD 531.4 but it would show
Nvidia Driver Not Compatible With This Version Of Windows The graphics driver couldn’t find compatible graphics hardware
But thanks to MSI forum they led me to use a tool called NVCleanstall
It modifies the INF file you choose (in my case MSI was nvmiig.inf (settings that contain what drivers to use) adding the ID of your GPU to it and basically modifying the setup to run, install and kick the errors (I read I had to Disable Secure Boot from BIOS but this may not be needed only if error occurred, did it anyway)
Result:
I installed GRD 531.41 and it is not the version itself that did it but because it is a recent compared to 2018. And now GeForce Experience, Device Manager and Nvidia Control panel show the driver I wanted as latest
No more visual glitches in Hellblade and Myst now with their true colors OBS studio does not crash but runs Sea of Thieves can now launch with Nvidia driver
Here is the result for Myst - before: https://i.imgur.com/WFd5cPp.jpg
Fixed: https://i.imgur.com/crhoYBa.jpg

I've got the following (relevant) parts:

1. Corsair Carbide 600Q case
2. Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240 AIO CPU cooler (cooling an i5-13600K)
3. EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 XC3 ULTRA HYBRID GAMING GPU w/ built-in AIO cooler

The CPU cooler came first and is mounted to the front of the case in intake mode, with the radiator oriented properly per the manual. The GPU came second and I installed it with the radiator on the bottom of the case in exhaust. (There's also a case fan in the rear doing exhaust.)
Last night I came across this great video on how to properly (and improperly) install AIO liquid coolers, and I've come to realize that putting the GPU radiator below the pump is a no-no. It's not causing any immediate issues (no noise, etc.) but given how expensive this thing was I don't want to shorten its life.
The rear of my case doesn't have enough space to mount there and since my case has the PSU *above* the motherboard I can't exhaust to the top either, which would be ideal. So I'm trying to figure out my best next steps.
My orders of priority are:

1. QUIET! I don't need/want flashy RGB, I want a quiet box that preferably people can't hear unless they're paying attention.
2. Preserve the life of the components.
3. I want the components to perform up to spec, but I am not planning on overclocking. I just bought liquid cooling because I thought it would be quieter.

The options as I see them are (in no particular order):

1. Get a new case that has better fan mounting options.
2. Replace the CPU AIO with air cooling.
3. Replace the GPU AIO with air cooling. (Not sure if it would be betteeasier to find a kit to modify what I have or if I should resell/swap for something already configured.)

Anyone have thoughts on the right approach here?